EXPLORE CRETE
Beauty, fertility and the ever-present sea – the
aspects of Crete that Homer singled out for mention in the 8th century
BC – are still the principal reasons why people come to Crete today.
Crete is the largest of the hundreds of islands making up the Greek Archipelago, ranging fifth in the Mediterranean. The island measures approximately 265km from east to west, about 60 km north to south at its widest and about 15km at the narrowest place.
Crete is also the southernmost point of any significance in Europe.
Crete is also the birthplace of Europe’s oldest civilisation, the
legendary birthplace of Zeus , steeped in mythology and classical
history. Archaeologists were astounded to discover, not the classical
Greek sites they had been expecting, but the accomplished art and
architecture of a far older civilisation.
Crete Minoans ,Saracens ,Turks and Venetians have all left their mark ,
creating an abundance of ancient sites.
It separates the Aegean from Libyan Sea, marks the boundary between
Europe and Africa. Majestic mountains rise in its centre - the White
Mountains, Psiloritis, Dikti. Its plateaus are split by deep gorges and
end up in fertile valleys.
Coastline that varies between long stretches of soft sand and tiny
coves. The scenery is constantly changing. In one place harsh and
barren, in another wooden and gentle.
LASSITHI
Lassithi prefecture combines walks through vestiges of the remotest past
with the promising future of a natural environment that underlies the
special charm that so many people have been fascinated by. A land of
contrasts, an old game of earth, sea and air. Here one can find unique
archaeological remains, spectacular gorges, beautiful plateaus, small
picturesque villages. The marine environment invites us to relate to its
immensity, the depths of which always hide so many mysteries.
Fishing villages around sheltered harbors, where profound respect for
the sea has marked the gentle personality of the inhabitants.
Human warmth, ancestral traditions that still thrive in the hearts of
the young, the local festivities, the local cuisine with recipes that
have been passed down from mothers to daughters for generations, genuine
flavors and aromas, as natural as the people themselves, proud of what
they have and of what they have managed to preserve through the years.
AGIOS NIKOLAOS
Built in one of the most beautiful edges of Europe, the town of Aghios
Nikolaos – the capital city of Lassithi – maintains its originality
along with the serene hospitable nostalgic atmosphere of the old times.
A traditional place, laden with memories & customs from the past full of
interest.
Agios Nikolaos has been built on the traces of ‘Lato pros Kamara’,
harbour of the ancient city ‘Lato Etera’. This large Dorian – era
habitation was built on a post-Minoan site, which was also the
birthplace of Nearchos, Admiral of Alexander the Great.
Today’s city was named after the charming little Byzantine chapel of
Saint Nicholas built in the 8th century on the spot called ‘nisi’. The
chapel is full of interesting, well preserved frescoes of the 8th
century.
The history of Ag. Nic. is nowadays safeguarded in two of the most
important museums on Crete, the Archaeological museum and the Folkloric
Museum. The first is situated in a dominant location overlooking the
city, while the second is found next to the bridge of the lake.
Agios Nikolaos was the first place to receive tourists as far as Crete
is concerned. There are wonderful places that charismatic people
discovered long time ago, like Walt Disney and Jules Dessain. Many films
were also filmed in Agios Nikolaos like ‘Moon Spinners’, ‘Celui qui doit
mourir’, the most recent ‘Beware of the Greeks’, but also the TV series
such as BBC’s ‘Who pays the ferryman’.
ELOUNDA
Built on the borders between the ancient cities of Lato and Oloundos,
today’s Elounda still holds its first name. The whole area is an
exciting combination of wild mountain sides and calm sea waters, that
form a lovely lake between the islets of Spinalonga, Kolokitha &
Glaronissi.
From the top of the hills, when the transparent waters are calm, ancient
Elounda can be easily spotted on the bottom of the deep sea.
Facing Elunda’s site of Plaka, is ‘Spinalonga’ an islet with a Venetian
castle, with a long dramatic history. The castle was one of the
strongest fortresses during the Venetian occupation and the last point
that failed during the Turkish invasion.
After the liberation, from 1903 to 1955, the islet of Spinalonga was
used as a colony – in effect a prison – for lepers and others suffering
from contagious deceases. Today it is an interesting tourist attraction.
KALO CHORIO
The serpentine road after Almyros, offers a breathtaking view of
Merabello all the way to the village of Kalo Chorio. The ancient city of
Istron was built here, but there are no excavations held up to now.
The festivities of Aghios Pandeleimon on the 27th of July and of Aghios
Syllas on the 30th of July, are an unforgettable experience each year in
Kalo Chorio.
On the right side of the valley, the road leads to a magnificent small
beach with some tavernas serving local food.
KRITSA
A magnificent traditional village, approximately 11 km west of the town,
lays on an altitude of 375 m. Its inhabitants are the descends of the
ancient city ‘Lato Etera’, whose ruins are discovered 3 km. northwest of
the village. A few excavations are in progress, showing the ancient
market place, the tribune (‘pritanelon’) and the city’s sacred
sanctuary.
Kritsa has many Byzantine churches with wonderful frescoes of the 14th
and 15th century. The most remarkable is the famous ‘Panaghia Kera’,
with its dome and steep sides, surrounded by cypress trees offering an
astonishing sight.
IERAPETRA – the nymph of the
Lybian sea
Developing of the early years of the ancient Cretan civilization, this
strategically important corner of Europe, located in the centre of the
eastern Meditteranean Sea and also richly end wed by nature, Ierapetra
has always been of significant history and activity.
Flourishing under the influence of ancient Minoan and Greek
civilizations and later during the occupation of the Romans, and the
subsequent conquests of the Byzantine, the Arabs, the Saracens, the
Venetians and the Turks throughout the centuries, Ierapetra has always
remained one of the most powerful trading centres, known as the
‘Southrmost gate of Europe’!
Today, the area of Ierapetra is one of the most productive regions of
Greece and one of Europe’s main sources of early fresh fruit, vegetables
and olive oil!
Ierapetra is the ideal starting point for unlimited excursions to the
picturesque mountain and seaside districts of Ierapetra. From the
Selakano forest in Males to the sea shore, and between the western
villages of Myrtos and Gralygia and the eastern villages of Koutsounari,
Ferma and Makris Gialos, you may enjoy discovering the villages Anatoli,
Kalamafka, Riza, mournies, Episkopi, Paxia Ammos, all situated within
olive groves and almond trees, with an ample supply of water and lush
vegetation. Here you will have a personal experience of the unique and
famous Cretan hospitality!
Traditional Cuisine…
Ierapetra is also famous for its delicious local cuisine, which is based
on olive oil and the rich variety of its agricultural produce.
SITIA – the virgin of
Mediterranean
They say about Crete that it is the daughter of the Mediteranean; the
warm embrace of Europe; an open door to East and west; a crossroad of
sea paths, a meeting point of different nations and ancient
civilizations.
Nature, people, light, they all become a living legend; different
moments in history, rings of the same chain that keeps well bound
together the distant mystic past with the charmingly living present.
It is the place that the ancient people called ‘Gate to East’; it is
here that Europe hears her name being called for the first time.
The acquaintance with this charming place is at the same time a
wonderful trip to the ancient roots of the European civilization and an
initiation to the living tradition of today that Sitia’s peaceful and
cheerful landscape as well as the age old history and hospitable soul
helped create.
THE places worth to visit:
- the archaeological museum of Sitia, one of the most important
provincial museums of the country with exhibits that cover a period of
4000 years, starting from the Neolithic Times (3500 BC) till the
Byzantine period (500 AD)
- the Folkloric Museum of Sitia & Hamezi
- the Museum of the Monastery of Toplou
- the Venetian Fortress ‘Kazarma’ which in the summer hosts the local
cultural events ‘Kornaria’, a celebration – tribute to Vitzentzos
Kornaros, the great poet who wrote the famous Erotokritos and whose
birthplace is Sitia
- the ruins of a Minoan Settlement at the location ‘Petra’ , 1,5km east
of Sitia
- a Minoan residence, situated 2 km south from the village ‘Hamezi’. A
truly remarkable erection, unique in its kind, that dates back at the
first Mid-Minoan Period.
- The ancient settlement ‘Archaea Pressos’, situated close to the
village ‘Nea Pressos’, that is built on three hills –citadels.
- The monastery of Toplou , 12km northeast from the wealthiest and
biggest monasteries on Crete, dedicated to Agios Ioannis ‘Theologos’ and
to Virgin Mary.
- The renowned Minoan Palace of Kato Zakros, the fourth Minoan palace
brought to light on Crete covering an area of 15 thousand sq. meters
- The museum – exhibition centre of local products of the union of
Agricultural Cooperatives of Sitia where one finds aming other
facilities a tasting room, a cellar with wine vaults and a projection
room
PLACES of natural beauty
- the unique in Europe palm tree forest called Vai with the wonderful
beach and the agrarian palm trees that grow next to the sea
- visit the unique beaches of Mohlos, the beach of Sitia, Itanos, Vai,
Kouremenos, Kato Zakros, Xerokampos, Makris Gialos
- visit the caves of Peristeras, Megalo kai Mikro Katofigi, Pele-kita,
Oxo Latsidi, Spilea to Pefkon
THE LASITHI PLATEAU
The famous windmills of the Lasithi Plateau are highly photogenic, but
increasingly rare to find. Even so, the plateau scenery is rewarding in
its own right and certainly justifies a visit.
Take the road to Kasteli/ Tzermiado/ Lasithiou Plateau. This road
follows the broad and scenic valley of the Aposelemis river to Potamies.
After this village the hills enclosing the Lasithi Plateau loom ahead
like a cliff wall. Note the knob on the crest of the ridge, known as the
‘Nail’. This outcrop was the site of a Minoan peak sanctuary where,
intriguingly, the old religious rites continued to be practised for some
400 years after the final destruction of the Minoan palace culture in
1450 BC.
After the village of Gonies is the fertile Mohos Plain and then Krasi.
Krasi worths a detour for coffee and to admire the massive plane tree on
the main square .
Another detour lies 2km to the right: Moni Kera (Kera Monastery) is
largely modern but its hillside site guarantees sweeping views north to
Dia island over the Gulf of Heraklion.
Shortly afterwards is the Seli Ambelou pass (900m), where you can admire
southward views that take in the whole Lasithi Plateau. Rows of ruined
windmills line the crest of the ridge to the east of the pass.
Descending into the plain, the view ahead is of Psari Madara, at 2,148m
the highest peak in the Diktaean mountain range.
At the next junction you will encounter scenes of extensively cultivated
ground interspersed with fruit orchards. Rusting iron windmills are
everywhere, but they look far from romantic unless you are here in
summer when their canves sails are unfurled to catch the wind.
Turn left to begin a circular tour of the plateau villages. Tzermiado is
the principal town, full of old balconied houses hung with brightly
coloured rugs and embroidery fro sale. On the far side of the village, a
sighpost points to the Trapeza Cave, site of recent excavations and
easily reached by a short footpath.
In Agios Konsstantinos it is well worth stopping to visit the clearly
signposted Cretan Folk Museum set in a typical Cretan village house
built in 1800. Psychro is a popular village for the Diktaean Cave. From
here the road continues round the plateau rim back to Pinakiano for the
return journey.
HERAKLION CITY
The province of Heraklion sees more tourists than any of Crete, who come
Heraklion is the biggest town of Crete.
the main city and key business centre of Crete. there is much to do and
plenty of things worth seeing. Apart from shopping and the designer
clothes on Daedalou Street, there are many small shops off all the main
streets which sell those local products. Just have a look along 1866
Street and more so its side streets - you may find a curio distinctly
different from more typical "gifts" offered to visitors in gift shops.
The famous tourist attraction, the Saturday market that was by the port,
an almost kilometre long display of fruit and vegetables and sundry
items - has now sadly moved to an obscure suburb.
This is a brief guide to some of the well known and some less well known
enjoyments and rewards of Heraklion:
In the Heraklion region one will find the most important monuments of
our ancient civilization, such as the palaces of Knossos and Festos, the
ruins at Gortyna and Mallia, etc.
KNOSSOS
On first sight the ground plan is very confusing. Today the extensive
reconstructions offer the tourist an opportunity to better understand of
Minoan architecture. Besides the great palace, there is also the little
palace, which served mainly religious purposes.
FESTOS
The Festos disk, whose hieroglyphic script still baffles the scientists,
was found in one of the rooms. A special feature of the grand staircase,
14m wide, are its convex steps. Near Festos is the small palace of Ag.
Triada, which probably served the rules of Festos as villa or a summer
residence.
AMNISSOS
This was the port of Knossos. A Minoan villa is called Villa of the
Lilies because the frescoes found in it. The building has been destroyed
by an earthquake, the frescoes, the oldest representation of lilies in
the world, today can be seen in the archaeological museum of Heraklion.
EPANO ARCHANES
On the hill Fourni, just northwest of the town, a Minoan cemetery has
been discovered. In the town itself are the remains of a Minoan villa.
GORTYNA
At the beginning of the 8th century B.C. the town grew to become very
important. After the occupation of Crete by the Romans it was made the
capital of the island Cyrenaica. The temple of Apollo Pythios was the
main sanctuary of the city.
MALIA
The ruins which are visible today date back to the 17th century B.C. the
most interesting relic is a circular stone table near the grand
Staircase, which probably served as an altar. Next to the palace are the
remains of some houses as well as the Chrysolakos, the burial ground of
the town.
LIMIN HERSONISSOU
This was the harbor town of Lyttos. Some of the stone bollards of the
quays can still be seen in the sea. Besides there are the remains of two
Early Christian basilicas with mosaics.
GAZI
Area of great natural beauty with long beaches, rich tourist
infrastructure but also gorges, water lands and mountainous parts, the
Municipality of Gazi covers the northeastern side of the Heraklion
region. With rich tourist infrastructure at the coastal zone and
villages where life goes on more peacefully than elsewhere since these
villages retain their country character, the Municipality of Gazi is
characterised by the striking polymorphism of both its ecosystems and
its people.
The visitor can visit the Monastery of Agios Panteleymon of Fodele, a
small monastery built at a beautiful location over the village of Fodele.
The church of Panagia (Virgin Mary), the style of the church is
cruciform with a dome and it was built on the ruins of a three – aisled
palaeo - Christian basilica of the 6th century A.B. its floor was adomed
with a mosaic created by marble pebbles. The Monastery of Savathiana, a
known monastery built in an area of exquisite beauty, with huge trees
and wild vegetation, and a great view that awakes many memories from
times past is the convent of Savathiana which today counts 16 nuns
living in it. In the Venetian times this was an important monastery. The
Fortress of Paleokastro, was designed by the Venetian engineer.
The municipality also offers the river Almyros, one great spring from
which brackish water runs all year through is found in the north of the
coast of Linoperamata. Huge quantities of water form a small lake which
further down is turned into a river that runs towards the sea. The
speleologists who explored the area discovered an extended complex of
galleries and chambers. Galleries of 350m long have been mapped at a
depth of even 90 metres below the surface of the lake. The speleologists
themselves reached the even greater depth of 120 meters going right into
the heart of the earth. Once, there were watermills in this area where
the cereals produced in the region of Malevizi were ground.
THE MUSEUM OF EL GRECO
El Greco (Domenicos Theotokopoulos) was born and grew up in Fodele, near
Heraklion, in the island of Crete, about 1541. He then appreciticed
himself to the masters painters, the Sinai Friars. Here he was
thoroughly trained in the Byzantine tradition of icon painting and fell
under the influence of the Cretan school. It was here that his
expressive style first formed: already at the age of 25 in 1566 he was
counted ‘master painter’.
To seek wider horizons and to seek his fortune he went first to Venice.
He stayed about four years and completed his artistic training in the
shadow of Titian and the great painters of the high Renaissance such as
Tintoretto, Veronese and Bassano. In about 1570, he went to Rome, and
worked at architecture and sculpture. This eternal exile then saw
greater opportunity of his talent and for recognition’s in Spain, and
went first to Madrid, then Toledo. In Madrid, he worked for the Spanish
king Phillip II in the decoration of the Escorial palace; in 1577 then,
he left Toledo , to work on the shrine of Santo Domingo el Antiguo. It
was here that his genius came to its full flowering, and it was here
that he worked ceaselessly until his death in 1614. at the time of his
death, his belonging included 115 paintings, 15 sketches and 150
drawings.
HERSONISSOS
The municipality of Hersonisos spreads imposingly from the north coast
of the centre of Crete to the tips of the Lasithian mountains.
It is comprised of settlements with unique characteristics and
pictueresqueness. Hersonissos is an organised tourism destination with
high quality hotel and congress infrastructure and natural beauties at
its coastal part.
Even though Hersonissos is rich in wonderful beaches, nightlife, and
mass tourism, it is also opulent in untrodden lands and interspersed
with historical monuments and sites of great natural beauty. The natural
routes of Hersonissos represent at the same time routes to the past, to
the rich history of a blessed land.
ZONIANA
The ‘Sfentoni’ cave is situated 43km from Heraklion and 52km from
Rethymno. You will also find a viewing area from where you can enjoy the
magnificent views of the surrounding landscape.
A flagstone path leads on the cave, which boasts approximately 3000 sq.
m. on a walk through the interior of the cave, of 270m, the visitor is
given the opportunity to admire the results of nature’s work, which
started thousands of years ago and continues today. With great patience
nature has improvised and created this aesthetic scenery from drops of
water and salt. Huge columns frame intricate spaces. Innumerable
stalactites and stalagmites of various shapes and colour adorn the halls
of the cave, while hallowed out water basins and ‘cave pearls’ can be
found in many places.
The cave of the ‘hole of Sfentoni’ is situated north east of the village
of Zoniana in the area known as ‘Skafidia’, at a height of 630m in the
northern foothills of Mount Psiloritis. On the way to the caves you pass
along several high precipes and huge boulders, while the clear waters of
a beautiful spring gush a little below.
MALIA
You can visit the old city of Malia and walk down the small graphic and
paved with flagstones streets where you see all white houses with
courtyards and flowers.
You will meet hospitable people, historical churches, quiet traditional
taverns with Cretan delicious food, cafeterias, bars and many shops for
your purchase.
The palace in Malia the third largest Minoan Palace in Crete, was first
built about 1900 B.C. the king Sarpidon, who was the brother of Minoas,
built it reputedly.
At the south side of the palace is the church of ‘Prophet Elias’. This
place is offered for charming sunsets and panoramic photos. The fertile
field of Malia produces a lot of agricultural products and the famous
bananas.
You can go up through the traditional pathways from Malia and Stalis
smelling the perfume of the Cretan flora. In the centre of Mohos you can
see the beautiful square with the major temple of ‘Evangelistria’.
Under the shadow of old trees you can taste Cretan dishes,listen to the
live Cretan music and walk in the village, looking at the stone made
houses of Cretan architecture and historical churches.
Moreover, Krasi is a small graphic mountainous village with beautiful
green scenery. You see there the very old plane – tree and the stone
made fountains with cold water.
ARCHANES
Archanes won the first prize in the category ‘Holistic and fruitful high
quality development’ and overall second prize in the competition for the
‘European prize for Village Upgrade’, in which many European countries
took part.
The progress of Archanes is also obvious from the preservation and
restoration of buildings such as the old junior School at the entrance
of the village, the Town Hall, the whole of the market, the building
housing with the archaeological collection, the churches and many
others. All these, together with the tasteful public spaces, are a joy
to see, cultivating the aesthetic sensibilities of locals and visitors
alike. The promotion and preservation of archaeological and historical
monuments in the village and the wider efforts to preserve its
archaeological heritage make Archanes stand out.
Archanes is a lovely place, where the population is continually
increasing.
Archanes attracts both foreigners and local visitors by offering
something different: authenticity and respect for the environment and
the tradition. Its coolness in the heat of the summer, its promise of
good food and wine call you. Romantics can take a walk through the lanes
at sunset, where you will still meet groups of people sitting and
chatting on their doorsteps.
There is the scent of jasmine, camations and the other flowers
decorating the front yards. You can also find traditional cafes and
stroll around!
CASTELI DI PEDIADI
The municipality of Casteli consists of 25 picturesque and traditional
settlements: Agia Paraskevi, Agnos, Amariano, Apostoli, Armaha,
Arhangelos, Aski, Galeliano, Geraki, Diavedae, Evangelismos, Ano
Karouzana, Kato Karouzana, Kastamonitsa, Kasteli, Lagou, Liliano, Littos,
Mathia, Bitzariano, Polithea, Sklaverohori, Smari, Tzigounas and Tihos.
The archaeological excavations conducted in the area have revealed
places like: the early Minoan settlements of Kasteli, Littos, the
citadel of Smari and Tihos. In the area are many Hellenistic and
Byzantine churches with rare frescos on their walls.
Agios Panteleimon
The old three aisled church of Agios Panteleimon is situated at an
idyllic location grown with age – long planes. The church is decorated
with some of the oldest frescos in Crete many of which are still saved.
Agia Anna and surrounding area
Setting off from the village Geraki, another wonderful climbing route
starts that leads to the exquisite chapel of Agia Anna. The images that
come and go in front of your eyes are charming as one gets to see a wild
landscape, forestall areas grown with prunuses and cedars, beautiful
images of goats and sheep and traditional stone- built kraals. Once you
get to the church you realize that not only the view from there is
superb but also that there is a spring with fresh clear water and plenty
of space to rest or picnic.
AMARIANO
Amariano is a picturesque settlement with a wonderful square, running
water and an age-long plane.
KATO & PANO KAROUZANA
Settlements with many visitors, with a wonderful view, picturesque
narrow streets, small traditional cafes and tavernas, where during the
summer period Cretan nights are organised with local bands and dancing
groups.
MATHIA
At this picturesque settlement at the location ‘Metohi’, a wonderful
landscape of natural beauty spreads out with the historic prunus of
Ismail Passa, with age long plane, running water.
SMARI
The village has been characterised a traditional Cretan settlement. In
the area there are still excavations going on and the findings belong to
different periods dating back at the Middle-Minoan times onwards. The
view from the citadel is wonderful and one can see even the north coast
of the area Gouves. East of the citadel is the traditional settlement of
Lagos and a 100m going down from the citadel on your way to Smari one
finds the wonderful chapel of Profitis Ilias. In the area there are many
small dwellings and taverns where the visitor can enjoy local dainties.
TIHOS
For its water supply Liktos had carried the water from the spring at
Krassi via an aqueduct, namely a huge stone water-bridge part of which
is still saved and can be seen at the end of the settlement that was
named after it (Tihos=wall).
LITTOS OR LIKTOS
An ancient city that thrived during the Minoan and the Roman times.
Liktos had circulated at different times different types of coins that
had as emblem an eagle with its wings wide-open as well as the head of a
wild pig. On top of the city’s ruins two wonderful churches stand today,
the church of Timios Stavros (Holy Cross) and the church of Agios
Georgios.
THRAPSANO – the village of the potteries
The municipality of Thrapsano was introduced in 1998 and includes the
villages of Thrapsano, Voni, Zofori and Saba. the municipality is
located 32 km away from Heraklion and numbers approximately 2500
residents, who are mainly farmers, stock breeders and jar makers.
Regarding the latter, the tradition of pottery is met exclusively in
Thrapsano which is also known as the village of the jar makers.
HOW TO GET THERE
Just follow the route Heraklion – Knossos – Agies Paraskies – Thrapsano
– Kasteli.
PLACES OF INTEREST
First of all visit the pottery workshop of Thrapsano where the jar
makers continue a tradition that is lost in the depth of time with the
same incomparable strength and willingness. The earthenware objects
found in the village are thought to be true masterpieces resembling to
those made by the Minoans and many of them are exported in various
countries in the world. It is also worth visiting the small lake called
Livada, an acquatic area that the ecotourists seem to appreciate and
whose history is connected with the tradition in pottery that the area
is said to have based also on the excavationsin the area that brought to
light clay artefacts. Close to the lake there is a park of environmental
training and recreation where visitors
Can spend their time by getting to know the animals and birds that find
shelter here.
HISTORIC MONUMENTS – CHURCHES -
MONASTERIES
The main church of the village, a two aisled basilica, is found in the
square of Thrapsano and it is dedicated to the presentation of Virgin
Mary. It is believed to have been built in the 15th century AD.
Another church worth visiting is the church of ‘Panagia I Pigadiotissa’
in the vicinity of which there is a well of miracles. According to the
tradition no matter who or what fell into the well, man or animal, the
water rose so that the man or animal would come to surface without
drowning. The well and its power are mentioned in various books. In the
municipal department of Saba one can find the church of ‘Panagia Zoodoho
Pigi’, a one aisled basilica that dates back at the 12th century AD. It
is worth noticing the frescos on the walls that depict the Saint Francis
of Asizi which are considered to be unique in the eastern orthodox
world. In the precinct of the church there is a stone spring and an
age-long plane.
In the municipality of Thrapsano there are also two monasteries, the
monastery of Agarathos and of Agia Marina at Voni. The first one is of
great historic importance and it is dedicated to Virgin Mary. It is a
remarkable monastery that dates back at the 15th century AD without
excluding the chance to have been founded sometime during the second
Byzantine period. The monastery of the Agia Marina at Voni was renovated
after 1985, as previously only a small chapel existed that had a spring
inside from where holy water came out. Each year on the 16th – 17th of
July when Agia Marina is celebrated, thousands of pilgrims come here to
pay due honours to the saint. It is considered to be the third biggest
trade fair in Greece.
Archaeological Sites
Recent excavations that were realized close to the settlement of Galatas
brought to light ruins of a Minoan palace.
RETHIMNO
Rethimno and its villages are living postcards, where the flavour of the
Cretan cuisine and the Cretan lyre is heard. Here people have made
nature and sentiment their allies, large city rules do not affect them.
Wherever you go, even in the most removed village you will be given a
heartfelt welcome. This is because Rethimno is the home of Zeus, the
good hospitality.
In Rethimno city a lot of Turkish houses and mosques are still evident.
The Fortezza Frourio was built by the Venetians, in the town proper, the
Arimondi Fountain (1623) and the Loggia a fine building (early in the
17th century), which today houses the Museum, should not be missed. The
Great Mosque, which has three domes and a minaret, today serves as a
concert hall.
Rethimno is the third largest city on Crete. It combines the old town's
charm and history together with a long sandy beach.
In Rethimno the visitor can find various attractions that allows them to
discover the character of the old town with its mix of architecture and
history, cultural influences and styles ranging from Venetian to Ottoman
empire.
Turtles are regular visitors along the beaches of Rethimno and return
between June and August to lay their eggs each year.
Rethimno’s Venetian harbour is a fine place for a coffee or lunch while
enjoying the historic area.
The Fortress dominates the city and makes Rethimno very photogenic with
its pedestrian streets and the charming old buildings. The Venetian &
the Turkish influence is obvious in many parts of the city. Numerous
shops for souvenirs, trendy fashion & jewellery make a colourful and
buzzing town.
Venturing outside the town, some days you will visit dramatic gorges,
monasteries, time-trodden villages with ancient churches, the south
coast Libyan sea, spectacular mountains of Psiloritis and the Lefka Ori
(White Mountains).
ELEYTHERNA
The most interesting archaeological site to visit in the prefecture. The
city of Eleytherna was built on a fortified hillrock, surrounded by two
rivers.
LAPPA
The remains of the ancient city, which is being excavated in sections,
can be visited in the village Argiroupoli. Lately excavations have
started in the area of the Five Virgins at a Roman cemetery.
IDEO ANDRO
The sacred cave, used from Minoan up to Roman times, is best known on
Crete after the Dikteo Andro. Here famous bronze shields were found.
MONI ARKADIOU
The most significant monastery of Rethimno. It is situated 23 km from
the city and is built on the edge of three districts. Established in the
14th or 15th century, it constituted an important revolutionary centre
during the Turkish occupation. The martyrdom of its defenders in 1866
made it known worldwide. The monastery is built around a central
courtyard with the Cathedral situated in the centre. Its façade is a
good example of Cretan renaissance architecture.
PANORMOS
The remains of an early Christian basilica point to the fact that it was
the seat of a bishopric.
ARMENI
1km north of the village Armeni lies the ancient Minoan cemetery .
STAVROMENOS
In the village of Stavromenos an old Roman therm construction can be
visited.
ZOMINTHOS
Important archaeological site with a large Minoan settlement and
impressive buildings that have been excavated.
ARKADI – the European monument
of Liberty
The monastery of Arkadi dominates on a low plateau in the inland of
Rethimno at a distance of 23km from the city. It is a large fortress –
type of complex that was built during the last period of the Venetian
occupation. In the central building, apart from the monks cells there
were storage rooms, facilities where the agricultural products where
processed and some stables. In this way, there was no need for the monks
to leave the monastery in times of tension.
The history of the monastery begins during the Byzantine period. Its
name probably comes from the name of the monk who founded the monastery
, Arkadios. In the 16th century the monastery becomes an important
spiritual centre. The monks copied mainly ecclesiastic books, a rich
library with works of ancient writers operated at the time and also a
school. The Turkish invasion suspended for a while the spiritual
activities that took place inside the monastery but soon after they were
restored to normal.
The Turks allowed the monks to use the church’s bells something that did
not apply for other Christian symbols and monuments. This fact alone is
considered to be one of the most important facts in the history of
Crete, that is why the monastery of Arkadi was characterised as a
European Monument of Freedom. In the museum of the monastery there are
icons and other items, remains from the holocaust that took place in the
1866. in the last few years, great efforts to maintain this monument are
made.
ARCHAEA ELEFTHERNA
The archaeological place called ‘Archaea Eleftherna’, situated at a
distance of about 30km southeast of Rethimno, covers a wider area the
principal centres of which are located on top of two hills, ‘Pirgi’ and
‘Nissi’. The two hills are washed by three streams which become one at
the north side of the hills. This central urban cell has always been on
top of the hill ‘Pirgi’. Hellenistic buttressed walls and buildings,
Roman erections and a Paleo – Christian basilica are the basic remains
that one can see at the eastern side of the hill. On the west side of
the hill, at the location ‘Orthi Petra’, there is the cemetery of the
Post – Geometrical – Archaic Times, part of which was covered by a later
Roman erection. On the island there is a settlement that thrived during
the Hellenstic times.
Part of a fortress rises on the northern side of a narrow passage that
constitutes the only natural passage from the south to the hill ‘Pirgi’.
The fortress was used since the Hellenistic up until the Byzantine
times. An ancient bridge located in the northern side of the city, close
to the place where the three streams that wash the two hills , ‘Pirgi’
and ‘Nissi’ meet.
ANOGIA VILLAGE
The village of Anogia has a history that is powerful and tragic - burned
by the Turks, then by the Germans who during the war, as reprisal for
kidnapping a German general, shot all the men they could find in the
village. The atmosphere here is very friendly & it is possible to see
men wearing the Cretan baggy trousers tucked into their boots, heads
decorated with nets, here than just about anywhere else.
Wander the streets from the top to the bottom of the village, see
traditional tablecloths and linens, visit the Museum Grillios and enjoy
your coffee in the traditional ‘Kafeneion’ (coffee shops) in the Ag.
Georgios square.
Venture from here to the inspiring and enormous Nida plateau and visit
the Ideon caves (mythology: Zeus grew up here). The journey is truly
scenic and takes you through sparkling rock and mountainscapes.
At Zoniana, a nearby village, you can check out the new wax museum.
THE MONASTERY OF PREVELI ON
CRETE
The monastery of Preveli with its glorious history is dated around 1954
& consists of two main building complexes, the Monastery of Saint John
the Baptist and the Monastery of Saint John the Theologian.
The Monastery has a glorious history due to the active and leading
involvement of its monks in all national endeavourers for freedom and
education.
The monastery was for three centuries the most important centre due to
its leading role in the local society and in the II World War
In the monastery of Preveli guests can visit the museum with a
substantial number of icons with interesting themes from the beginning
of the 17th to the end of 19th century. In the small museum at the
Monastery can be seen the collections of ecclesiastical garments, of
ecclesiastical vessels & the collection of heirlooms.
The choices made in the selection of the various themes of the icons,
indicates a good level of culture of the monks - who purchased these at
the end of 19th century, considering the distance from the urban centres
and the isolation of the area.
CHANIA
The municipality of Chania, the most western part of crete, is well –
known for its unique beauty. The endless sandy beaches, the gorges, the
caves, the indigenous plants and animals, the vast olive and orange
groves and a combination of wild landscapes and sea excites even the
most choosy visitors. In the mountainous up country are maintained
villages forgotten by time, dispersed churches and monasteries, towers
and castles. All the area is a particular interesting archaeological
site and at the same time a paradise for wanderings. The excavations
both in the town of Hania and in the country have proven the existence
of settlements from prehistoric time until today.
GORGE OF SAMARIA
The canyon (18km, between 3 and 40m wide) is the longest true gorge in
Europe. The walls are rising sheer for nearly 600 meters in some places.
The walk down to Ag. Roumeli lasts between six to seven hours. This is
the only place where the agrimi (wild goat) is still living on Crete.
ALIKAMBOS
Immediately beneath the village stands the church of Pan. Demeni is
decorated with fine frescoes by J.Pagomenos one of the earliest
representatives of the so called ‘Cretan School’.
APTERA
The beginnings of the city reach back to Mycenaean times. It flourished
in Hellenic times.
FRAGOKASTELO
The fortress built in 1371 is one of the oldest Venetian castles on the
island. It represents the type of fortification which was built before
cannons were used.
LISSOS
During classical times, the place was well known for its therapeutic
springs, today one can see the ruins of an Asklepion and the temple with
fine mosaics…
PALEOHORA
On the promontory guarding the town stands the castle Selino of the
Venetian origin.
PHALASSARNA
Scant remains of the ancient town, famous for its temple of Artemis
Diktina are still visible today.
Chania is the second biggest prefecture of Crete with the popular
capital city of Chania. In the city the Venetian Harbor, the old port,
the narrow shopping streets and waterfront restaurants. - old buildings,
museums, churches and crafts shops (some with genuinely interesting and
sometimes local, products on offer).
The atmosphere has a touch of Florence and Venice combined with the
culture and character of Cretan people and traditions.
The Chania harbor is wonderful and at any particular time of day the
light produces a different result, a different place.
This is the best chance to see some of the old buildings - of Roman and
Turkish design, that Crete once had across the island - many have since
been destroyed by the ravages of war and plunder.
Explore the waterfront and streets just behind. Walk along the harbor
wall to the Venetian Lighthouse
Chania is surrounded by numerous rich options for sightseeing,
exploration and discovery. Mountain villages provide a view into the
"inner Crete" the Samaria and many other gorges can be walked along,
archaeological sites abound.
MUSEUMS:
- MARITIME MUSEUM Open: 10.00 to 14.00 daily, except Monday. Tel:
28210-91875.
- Chania Archaeological Museum
- Open: 8.00 to 17.00 daily, except Monday. Tel: 28210-90334.
- Historical Archives
Open 9.00 to 13.00, Monday to Friday. Tel: 28210-52606 . Admission:
Free.
Byzantine Museum. Open: 8.30 to 14.00 daily, except Monday. Tel:
28210-96046.
Chania province lies in the western Crete and is dominated by a riche
variety of natural beauties. In Chania, the peaks of the Lefka Ori (the
white mountains) fill the horizon to the south and they are named after
the snows that cover the long easw – west ridge for six months of the
year (November to April) and because the grey – white limestone screes
that rise above the tree line look like snow during the summer months.
Chania has a large share of natural beauty – numerous deep, water –
eroded ravines – such as the popular Samaria gorge. The province is also
very rich for botanists, with far less soil under cultivation and a
great range of habitats, from beaches and cliffs to swamps and river
estuaries, where wading birds and terrapins add to the biological
diversity.
AKROTIRI PENINSULA
The Akrotiri peninsula juts out like a clenched fist to the northeast of
Chania, enclosing to the south the beautiful sweep of Souda bay. The
once peaceful peninsula is now the site of Crete’s second airport, and
this has stimulated major development as factories and distribution
warehouses are constructed to take advantage of the airports proximity.
Even so, there are some wild and unspoiled areas to the north, including
Stavros, a pretty fishing village enclosed by high cliffs, where the
final scenes in Zorba the Greek where filmed.
THE VENIZELOS GRAVES
East of Chania, on the road to the airport, and after 4km a sign on the
left points to the Venizelos Graves. Here the Cretan hero and statesman,
Eleftherios Venizelos, is buried, with his son, Sophokles, on a
beautiful and restful hilltop site high above Chania. If for no other
reason, the panoramic views make this sport worth seeking out –
additional attractions include a pleasant tree - shaded park and the
little Byzantine church of Profitis Ilias that stands close to the
graves.
It was on this hill, in 1897, at a very tense moment in the Cretan War
of independence, that Cretan fighters raised the greek flag in defiance
of the Turks. The flag was almost instantly demolished by shells fired
from a battleship in the harbour below, one of which also hit the
church. The ship that fired the shells was itself sunk the next day, an
act of divine revenge, according to devout Cretans.
Among the partisans who raised the Greek flag on that day was
Eleftherios Venizelos (1864-1936), a prominent figure in the War of
Independence, who went on to become prime minister of Greece in 1910. he
survived one assassination attempt, and in 1935, having led an abortive
republican coup was condemned to death by victorious monarchists. He
avoided execution by fleeing to Paris where he died shortly after. To
Cretans he remains a hero and an almost saintly figure.
KASTELLI
Kastelli (sometimes known as Kastelli Kissamou) is a bustling and
prosperous town serving the local agricultural community. Here you are
likely to come across furniture makers at work outside their workshops,
cobblers making Cretan riding boots and old fashioned bakers using wood
– fired ovens. The museum in the main square has long been closed for
restoration. When it re - opens it is worth visiting for its fine
collection of Roman statuary, including finds from Diktinna, the 2nd
century AD temple that sits at the tip of the Rodopos peninsula, to the
east of Kastelli. A rough track leads across the peninsula to the temple
site.
FALASARNA
The ancient port city of Falasarna lies to the west of Kastelli, and is
well worth visiting both for its ruins and for the huge and little –
visited sandy beach. Approaching Falasarna from Platanos there are fine
views down onto the beach and across the Gramvousa peninsula. Passing
masses of polythene tunnels, you know you have nearly reached the site
when you pass a large and prominent stone ‘throne’ on the left. The site
is littered with equally huge blocks of tufa, tumbled from the ancient
city’s collapsed walls.
The entrance is located next to a prominent circular tower, also part of
the city’s 3rd – century BC defences, alongside of which is a square
cistern with its original plaster – and – pitch lining intact. From here
you descent to the flat harbour basin, once under water, but now left
high and dry by tectonic movements that have lifted this western end of
Crete by about 9m. square trenches in the base of the harbour have been
left open by archaeologists, at the bottom of which you can see massive
masonry blocks jumbled up with pebbles. The theory is that the harbour,
built in the 4th century BC, had virtually fallen out of use by the 1st
century, but, being enclosed and hidden, was used by pirates as a base
of attacking Roman ships. Once the Roman had conquered Crete they
therefore, deliberately and permanently, blocked the harbour entrance
with these huge stones.
CHORA SFAKIA
Chora Sfakia is a quiet, unspoiled fishing village on the south coast.
The visitor can travel to the west of Chora Sfakia via only one steep
and narrow road. This passes, just to the west of the town, a group of
beachside caves. One of these is named the Cave of Daskalogiannis in
honour of the 18th century rebel who led the Cretan struggle against
Turkish rule and reputedly used the cave as a hideout. Daskaloyannis
came from Anopoli, the next village along the road, once a rebel
stronghold, now renowned for its carpets of spring wildflowers. Here
there is a choice of routes: on foot to Loutro, or by car, along a newly
made road to Aradena. The delightfull village of Loutro, about two hours
walk due south along a steep downhill footpath is the site of an ancient
harbour, to which St Paul was heading when his boat was blown off
course. It sits on a very beautiful bay, with the added attraction that
the only way in and out is by boat or on foot.
Aradena, by contrast, is a near deserted village and a delight to
explore. It sits in a stony arid plateau, backed by the Lefka ori
(White Mountains) whose peaks rise sheer behind. Like several other
isolated and abandoned villages on Crete, the former inhabitands
migrated to the other parts of the island – or even overseas – in order
to make a better living. Hand painted signs in the village point down
deserted cobbled streets to the white – domed church of Mikhail
Archangelos, with its 14th century frescoes, just visible through the
door grille if the door is locked. To the right of the church is the old
road, a broad pebbled path that was the only way into and out of the
village until the new bridge was built. The path leads to the edge of
the ravine and then plunges down into it, following a zig – zag psth up
to the other side. If you follow this path allow about an hour to reach
the top on the other side.
East of Chora Sfakia the countryside is flat and intensively cultivated,
with a rash of villa developments. The only historic site of note is the
atmospheric Fragkokastelo, a Venetian fortress that looks remarkably
complete from a distance, though only the external walls survive to any
height. The castle was built in 1371 ostensibly to protect the southern
coast against piratical raids. In fact the castle was more often used
for quelling the local population. Nearly 400 men lost their lives in
this peaceful spot in 1828 when Cretan insurrectionists, led by Dalianis
were massacred by the Turks. Local people say that a ghostly army, known
as the drossoulites (literally ‘dew shades’) returns at dawn to dance on
the plain in front of the castle on the anniversary, 17 May.
MALEME
The German invasion of Crete began at Maleme on the 20th of May 1941,
and today it is the site of the German War Cemetery. The cemetery stands
on hill 107 where much of the fighting took place and where many of the
German paratroopers who took part in the airborne invasion were picked
off with bullets as they floated to the ground. the small pavilion at
the entrance to the cemetery, with its map showing the progress of the
battle, does not record how many Cretans suffered in this war.
Today Hill 107 is a peaceful spot; the lower part is managed to
encourage wildflowers in spring, and the upper part is packed with neat
graves that spread all the way up to the hill crest. Here a terrace
offers view over Maleme airstrip, the focus of the German assault and
still in military use today.
SAMARIA GORGE
After Knossos, the Samaria gorge is the best – known attraction on
Crete, and every summer tens of thousands of people trudge the 15km –
long path that follows the bottom of the gorge, finding none of the
tranquillity and solitude that one normally associates with walking in
the countryside.
The gorge is only open from the beginning of May to the end of October
because flash floods are a very real danger in the rainy season.
There is no road access to the southern end, so your only way back is by
ferry (to Chore Sfakia, Sougia or Palaiochora), or by retracing your
steps up the gorge.
The total length of the gorge is 13km, and it is another 2km to the
coastal village of Agia Roumeli with kilometre posts marking out the
route. You should allow at least five hours to do the walk.
GENERAL
CULTURE
On Crete two separate cultures co-exist side by side: the Crete of the
20th century and the rural, pre-industrial Crete, which has not changed
much, in any essential respect, since Minoan times.
COUNTRY LIFE
In the heart of rural Crete there are still many people, mainly elderly
now, who live a very meagre, self – sufficient life. Their food comes
from what they grow, or simply gather wild. They rarely travel far
beyond their home village and they still use donkeys for small
distances.
These people are the survivors of the old Cretan way of life. Their
children usually live this life behind and seek an ‘better’ way of
living. The remaining rural Cretans claim to have an egalitarian
society, without class distinctions or rancour, where unwritten codes of
honour, mutual respect and co-operation survive until today.
THE KAFENION
Within this society, the kafenions, or café, also serves the purpose of
local parliament. The typical village kafenion is as plain as can be: no
posters adorn the walls and there are no price lists or tempting bottles
of exotic drinks on display. Local wine, coffee and water are the
principal drinks on offer and customers can linger for hours over one
small drink and nobody will object. On the contrary, it would be thought
odd not to linger, since the kafenion is the local club, a place where
men can gather to spend the whole evening in talk or play a game of
backgammon. Cafes are traditionally male – dominated establishments.
THE VOLTA
Women have their equivalent in the volta, the evening stroll, a habit
introduced by the Venetians. The volta takes place at that delightful
hour of the day when darkness begins to fall and work is done. As the
sun sets and the swifts flit above the tree tops, soon to be replaced by
the bats, housewives take off their aprons, brush their hair and step
out of doors to see what is going on. taking their children they stroll
arm in arm to greet old friends, to gossip or, if they are still young
and single, to flirt.
COUNTRY MEETS TOWN
The volta and the kafenion are the two traditions that still link the
old Crete with the new. The evening stroll in Rethimno is especially
vibrant, and the large number of students in both Chania and Rethimno
help to ensure that the cafes used by local people are always full –
especially late at night, long after hard working rural Cretans have
gone to bed.
Rural Cretans every week descend on their nearest big town to set up
street stalls selling everything from honey, olives and dried herbs to
leather boots and hand – knitted sweaters. Arriving the night before
market day, many give up the attempt to snatch some sleep in the back of
their van or pick up truck, drifting instead to the local cafes where
the music and dancing go on until the first light of dawn.
CUSTOMS & ETIQUETTE
Cretan people are very friendly on meeting strangers. A wave or a nod as
you pass someone while out walking usually elicits a broad smile. If you
say hello in Greek, all the better. Don’t be surprised to be offered a
piece of fruit of somebody’s orange tree or a raki! such spontaneous
generocity is still quite common, especially in the parts of Crete not
tainted by mass tourism.
CRETAN COSTUME
Cretan costume is still worn with pride by some country Cretans,
especially by the older men who gather to pass the day playing
backgammon in the kafenion. Prior to the Turkish occupation of Crete,
dress consisted of a simple belted tunic for both men and women.
Examples can be seen in many church frescoes throughout the island. In
the period between the 11th and the 16th century little changes occurred
– examples of them can be found in the Historical museum of Heraklion.
SISSI
Sissi is near to all the places you should see but yet quiet and calm.
The landscape is well balanced between sea and mountains. The sea is
warm and calm and there are small, clean and romantic beaches.
There are paths for people who love biking and for those who prefer
walking there are the beautiful roads of the village and the wonderful
landscape around Sisi where they can enjoy the contact with nature. The
visitor can enjoy the Cretan way of life, as Sisi is small, hospitable
and quiet, but full of life.
The small and picturesque port of Sisi looks like a big natural swimming
pool and is ideal for walks by the sea. In the port there is the
picturesque anchorage of the amateur fishermen where they moor their
boats, as Sisi has lots of fishing places.
On the east side of the village there is the sandy beach of Boufos, with
the international award of the Golden Starfish. After the beach of Bufos,
there is the small, romantic beach of Avlaki, that gives the feeling of
a private beach. From Sisi there is regular transportation to two
traditional Cretan villages, Vrahasi and Epano Sisi.
MILATOS
This attractive fishing village is set above a pretty pebble beach.
Milatos is mentioned by Homer as one of the Cretan towns that sent
troops to fight in the Trojan War and archaeological evidence suggests
that the village has been continually occupied for at least 5000 years.
Legend has it that migrants from this village founded the great and
famous city of Miletos on the modern Turkish coast. Though this may seem
no more than a coincidence of names, archaeologists have in fact found
Minoan settlement remains at Turkish Miletos. About 3km east of the
village lies the cave of Milatos, where in 1823 an estimated 3000
Cretans taking refuge were besieged by the Turks. Forced to surrender
and promised a safe passage, they were then massacred or taken as
slaves. A chapel with a small ossuary commemorates the event.
The traditional village of Vrahassi is just a few km from Sissi. Upon
entering you will see the village square with its quaint kafenions and
food emporioums. Taking a road parallel to the village’s main street,
you come upon the interesting old narrow streets of the town. Walking
along you will see an old water fountain and several old windmills.
Uphill from this point is a second square which is tree lined and cobble
stoned, and is complete with another old sculptured fountain and the
town’s famous plane tree. About 3 km from the village there is an
important historical monument – an old monastery and a church of Saint
George of Vrahasi, with its imposing belfry of original architecture.
Agios Georgios Selinaris is located on the road to Agios Nikolaos from
Sissi. There is a small 16th century church and a monastery which was
added on much later. The visitors have also a good chance to observe the
hawks and the numerous bird species.
The Archaeological Site in Malia is located 4 kilometres west of Sissi.
The site was inhabited in the Neolithic and early Minoan period (6000-
2000 BC), but very little trace remains. The Palace of Malia, which
covered an area of 7,500 square metres is the third- largest of the
Minoan Palaces and is considered the most "provincial" from an
architectural point of view. Sarpedon, the third son of Zeus and Europe,
ruled here. The Palace was built in 1900 BC and destroyed in 1700 BC
when a new Palace was built. Following the fate of the other palaces in
Crete it was also destroyed in 1450 BC and the present ruins are mainly
those of the new palace. The Palace had two floors and its entrance is
from the western paved Court, through a procession passage.
The monastery of Agios Georgios Selinaris
At the side of the gorge of Selinari, at the 42 km. of the national road
Heraklion - Agios Nikolaos, (Only 3,5 km. from Sissi) is the small old
chapel and the newly founded monastery of Agios Georgios Selinaris. The
small chapel was probably founded early in the 16th century, and ever
since it is a place of worshipping. The people passing through the
chapel stop to light a candle to the saint.
The chapel is considered miraculous, there are various legends
concerning miracles related either with healing of sick people or with
divine punishment of people that did not pay the respect due to the
saint.